By Jennifer Cuvillier
The Style Director of parisian department store Le Bon Marché offers her analysis of the major shape trends for the coming spring, with its celebratory mood and dressed-up lingerie.
How would you define the outlines of the silhouette for this coming spring ?
This Winter, collections highlighted a wardrobe for a sort of “Wonder Woman”, with a metallic, sequined trend that conveyed this desire to go out again and wear pieces with a stronger visual impact. This phenomenon will reach its peak next Summer with very bold colors such as yellows and oranges, alongside some uorescent tones that oscillate between pastel and acid bright. This strong graphic palette will be worn in a monochrome fashion, from head to toe, even down to the accessories, or by focusing on surprising combinations such as mauve contrasted with a brighter green. The other major theme that will dominate the coming Spring will be the outdoor trend, this desire to get outside, which is illustrated through nature-inspired colors and utilitarian materials that have a military in uence, such as khaki canvas trousers worn with a printed blouse and Pataugas-style boots.
What do you see your clientele wanting to wear post-covid ?
We clearly sense a desire to change up one’s wardrobe, to buy new things, to refresh one’s wardrobe or at least wear things differently. All special-occasion pieces, notably formal dresses, started selling well as soon as restrictions were lifted. Alongside the desire to keep the comfort aspect we all got used to during lockdown, there is an appetite for a more chic, feminine way of dressing. Hence, we’re seeing stronger shapes than the soft trousers we‘ve seen these past few seasons, and the return of stiletto heels to replace sneakers. In addition, we can also see this re ected in the trend for ultra-structured garments with clean lines that take an architected approach to clothing. Such is the case with pieces featuring beautiful cutouts that reveal certain parts of the body, such as a wrist, calf or ankle.
The collections we’ve seen on the runway seem to show more and more lingerie. What are the main trends in this respect ?
This Winter, underwear was focused on comfort, with a cozy feel that featured natural support, a layered mood and soft shades of beige and grey. For the post-Covid Springtime wardrobe, we see a desire to dress up again, to get back into a business-like wardrobe, to look good for going out, but also to put lingerie, and, in particular, camisoles, in the spotlight again. With classic colors such as red and black, but also brighter and bolder tones. This goes perfectly with the ultra-feminine silhouette we’ve seen on the runways.
Will this summer officially enshrine the inner/ outerwear crop top ?
These “summertime bras”, as I like to call them, are one of the big trends for the coming Summer and are part of the crop-top category we’ve been seeing for a few seasons now. This is a shape that offers a more structured look, which we find at both sports and luxury brands. The bra top allows for the use of a variety of materials and a mix of colors, and it can be worn underneath a jacket.